Made with meticulous care, Au Chinois Câblé linen (corded linen) from Ets Toulemonde is twisted linen which is assembled a second time, moistened and re-twisted. This moistening prevents the linen fibres from distorting. Cabling increases the resistance, giving a nicely rounded thread generally used in luxury leather goods and is great for just about any leatherworking project.
What’s the difference between Câblé linen, Lin Retors Extra, Lin Retors, etc.?
All of the corded linen lines are great products, each have been perfected to different sewing applications.
Lin Retors often comes in small sewing thread capsules and is a single twisted thread used for embroidery and cloth sewing.
Lin Retors Extra is the next step up- three strands twisted and then retwisted for extra smoothness and durability.
Lin Câblé is yet a another step up from that, in that it is moistened and smoothed for even more strength and durability.
Which size is best for me?
Overall our threads are suitable for most leather goods. The thickest size is 332 and the finest size is 832. Picking the best thread weight for your work has a couple of considerations:
Strength– Use thicker (332) thread for heavier duty items or items that you think will get more stress.
Stitch Count– Our pricking irons are mostly 9 teeth per inch which is universally suited for all of our thread sizes. If you choose a lower iron number (7pti, 6tpi, etc.) use thicker thread. Conversely, use a finer thread for higher iron numbers (11tpi, 12tpi etc.).
Aesthetic– 332 and 432 thread is commonly seen in more western looking items while 632 thread is seen in more luxury and European items.
Is the pre-waxed thread sticky?
The wax that comes on the Lin Câblé thread is not the cheap kind that are found on other brands. It is not very stick and does not wipe off on your hands. The wax is light and holds well while sewing. Many people will still run the thread over their waxing block to give it an extra layer. This is also perfectly fine.
We currently stock three thicknesses.
0.77mm thread diameter, approximately 133 meters
0.63mm thread diameter, approximately 200 meters
0.51mm thread diameter, approximately 285 meters
Each are presented on large 50 gram spools (hence length varies by thickness).
Three additional thicknesses (432, 532 and 832) are available by special order.